Why Do I Have Ants in My Potted Plants? (and How to Fix It)

Nothing quite compares to the frustration of discovering a steady stream of ants marching across your beautiful houseplants. You’re not alone in this battle—ant invasions in potted plants are incredibly common, and the good news is they’re completely solvable. Whether you spotted a few scouts or witnessed a full-scale invasion, that sinking feeling of watching your plant become an ant highway is all too familiar.

This guide breaks down exactly why ants target your potted plants and provides six proven methods to eliminate them safely. We’ve researched plant-safe solutions that work quickly without harming your green friends or your family. You’ll learn the science behind ant behavior, immediate action steps, and long-term prevention strategies that keep your plants ant-free for good.

Quick Solutions Table

Immediate Actions Vs. Long-term Prevention

When you spot ants in your potted plants, your first instinct might be to panic and reach for the strongest pesticide available. But here’s what really works: immediate isolation followed by targeted treatment addresses the current problem, while prevention strategies stop future invasions.

Start with these immediate actions within the first 24 hours:

• Move the affected plant away from other plants to prevent ant trails from spreading
• Check soil moisture levels and reduce watering if overly wet
• Inspect for aphids, scale insects, or other pests that attract ants
• Apply a gentle soapy water treatment to disrupt ant activity

For long-term prevention, focus on these strategies:

• Improve drainage with proper potting mix and drainage holes
• Create physical barriers using coffee grounds or cinnamon around pot bases
• Monitor plants weekly for early pest detection
• Maintain proper watering schedules to avoid overly moist soil

Plant-safe Treatment Options Overview

The key to successfully removing ants from potted plants lies in choosing treatments that eliminate the problem without harming your green friends. Plant-safe solutions work by targeting ants’ behavior patterns and food sources rather than poisoning them directly. This approach helps you wipe out the colony at its source.

Most effective plant-safe treatments fall into three categories:

• Disruption methods: Soapy water and neem oil interfere with ant pheromone trails and communication
• Physical barriers: Diatomaceous earth and natural deterrents create uncomfortable surfaces ants avoid
• Environmental modification: Soil replacement and drainage improvement remove the conditions that attract ants in the first place

These methods work particularly well because they address multiple aspects of ant infestations in plants simultaneously. Rather than just killing visible ants, they target the root causes that brought the ants to your potted flowers in the first place.

The most successful approach combines immediate ant removal with habitat modification to prevent future problems. This dual strategy ensures you won’t find yourself dealing with the same ant infestation in your indoor plants week after week.

The Science Made Simple: Why This Problem Happens

Ants Are Farming Aphids and Scale Insects

You might notice tiny green or brown insects clustered on your plant’s stems and leaves alongside the ants. This isn’t coincidence-ants actively protect and “farm” these pests because they produce a sweet substance called honeydew.

Aphids and scale insects feed on your plant’s sap, then excrete this sugary liquid that ants crave. Think of it as an underground protection racket where ants guard these pests from predators in exchange for regular sweet meals.

This symbiotic relationship explains why simply removing visible ants won’t solve your problem. The root cause lies in eliminating both the ants and their tiny livestock living on your plants. To effectively address fire ant mounds in your yard, it’s crucial to employ strategies that target their entire colony. Finding the best way to get rid of fire ant mounds ensures a pest-free environment for your plants and lawn.

Moisture and Organic Matter Attract Foraging Ants

Potting soil creates the perfect ant buffet with its rich organic materials and consistent moisture levels. Decomposing bark, compost, and other organic components in your soil release nutrients that attract various insects-which then attract ant scouts.

Indoor plants maintain steady soil moisture that outdoor plants don’t always have. This reliable water source becomes especially appealing during dry seasons when ants struggle to find hydration elsewhere.

The warmth from indoor heating also accelerates decomposition in your potting mix, creating even more attractive scents for foraging ant colonies.

Poor Drainage Creates Ant-friendly Environments

Waterlogged soil doesn’t just harm plant roots-it creates soggy conditions that many ant species actually prefer for nesting. Poor drainage turns your flower pot into prime real estate for ant colonies looking to establish new homes.

Pots without adequate drainage holes or those sitting in water-filled saucers become particularly vulnerable. The consistently damp environment mimics the moist soil conditions ants seek in nature for building their underground tunnels.

Compacted potting soil makes this problem worse by preventing proper water movement and creating pockets of standing moisture where ants in potted plant soil can thrive.

Sweet Plant Secretions and Honeydew

Beyond farming other insects, ants are drawn to natural plant secretions called extrafloral nectaries. Some houseplants produce these sweet droplets on leaves and stems as a natural defense mechanism to attract beneficial insects.

However, ants interpret these secretions as an invitation to set up shop in your potted flowers. Plants like peonies, cherries, and certain tropical houseplants are particularly prone to attracting ants through these natural sugars.

The sticky honeydew from pest insects compounds this attraction, creating multiple sugar sources that make your indoor plants irresistible to ant colonies.

1. Isolate and Assess Your Infested Plant

How to Safely Move Your Plant

Moving your ant-infested plant requires careful handling to prevent spreading the problem to nearby plants. First, place a large tray or old towel beneath the pot to catch any falling ants or soil during transport.

Lift the pot slowly and carry it to an isolated area like a bathroom, garage, or covered porch. Avoid shaking or jostling the plant, which could scatter ants throughout your home.

Set the plant in a bright location away from other houseplants. This quarantine period prevents ant infestations in plants from spreading while you work on treatment.

Signs You’re Dealing With an Infestation Vs. Casual Visitors

Casual ant visitors typically appear in small numbers and disappear quickly after exploring. True infestations involve steady ant trails, visible colonies in the soil, and persistent activity even after disturbance.

Look for these infestation indicators:

• Continuous ant trails leading to and from the pot
• Clusters of ants around the soil surface
• Visible ant holes or tunnels in the potting mix
• Ants emerging when you water the plant
• White ant eggs or larvae visible in the soil

Casual visitors usually number fewer than ten ants and show erratic movement patterns rather than organized trails.

Checking for Hidden Pest Problems

Examine your plant thoroughly for aphids, scale insects, and mealybugs that might be attracting the ants. Check the undersides of leaves, stem joints, and new growth areas where these pests commonly hide.

Use a magnifying glass to spot tiny insects you might miss with naked eyes. Aphids appear as small green, black, or white clusters, while scale insects look like small brown or white bumps attached to stems and leaves.

Look for sticky honeydew residue on leaves-this clear, glossy substance indicates pest activity even when the insects aren’t immediately visible. Addressing these hidden problems is crucial for long-term ant control in your potted plants.

Also See: A Guide to Getting Rid Of the Musty Smell in a Basement

2. The Soapy Water Method

What You’ll Need

This gentle yet effective treatment requires just a few household items:

• 1 tablespoon liquid dish soap (avoid antibacterial varieties)
• 1 quart lukewarm water
• Spray bottle or watering can
• Soft cloth or paper towels
• Small brush or cotton swabs for detail work

Choose mild dish soap without added fragrances or harsh chemicals that could damage your plant’s leaves. Dawn or similar gentle formulations work best for this ant removal method.

Step-by-step Application Process

Follow these steps to safely treat ants in your potted plant soil:

1. Mix the soap and water thoroughly until well combined
2. Test the solution on a small leaf area and wait 24 hours for any adverse reactions
3. Spray or pour the soapy water directly onto ant trails and visible colonies in the soil
4. Gently wipe down leaf surfaces where you’ve spotted ants or sticky honeydew
5. Use cotton swabs dipped in the solution to target individual ants on stems and leaves
6. Pour remaining solution slowly into the soil to reach underground ant activity
7. Allow excess water to drain completely from the pot’s drainage holes

The soap works by breaking down ants’ protective waxy coating, causing dehydration while remaining safe for your plants.

How Often to Repeat Treatment

Apply the soapy water treatment every 3-4 days for the first two weeks to target newly hatched ants and break the colony’s reproduction cycle. Most ant infestations require 4-6 treatments to achieve complete elimination.

Monitor your plant daily during treatment periods, looking for new ant activity or signs of plant stress. Reduce frequency to weekly applications if you notice leaf yellowing or other signs that your plant needs recovery time.

Continue treatments until you see no ant activity for at least one week. Remember that consistency matters more than intensity when removing ants from potted plants using this method.

3. Food-grade Diatomaceous Earth Treatment

Why Diatomaceous Earth Works Against Ants

Diatomaceous earth (DE) dehydrates ants by scratching the waxy coating on their exoskeleton and drawing out moisture. It’s made from fossilized algae (diatoms), so ants can’t develop resistance-there’s no chemical to adapt to.

Use food-grade DE only; pool-grade DE is not safe for home or plant use. When kept dry, it creates a long-lasting, invisible barrier that ants avoid crossing, which helps with ants in potted plant soil and trails around the pot.

Safe Application for Indoor Plants

You can remove ants from potted plants without harming your greenery by keeping DE off leaves and applying it as a dry, thin dust. It’s also crucial to ensure surrounding areas, like your patio or deck, are free of ant trails to prevent re-infestation.

• Food-grade diatomaceous earth
• Bulb duster or small squeeze bottle (an empty spice shaker works)
• Artist paintbrush (for precise placement)
• Mask and gloves
• Tray or newspaper to catch dust

1. Dry the top inch of soil first. DE only works when dry.
2. Turn off fans, close windows, and put on a mask.
3. Dust a thin ring on the soil surface, keeping it 0.5–1 inch from the stem.
4. Lift the pot and dust around the drainage hole and saucer. You can brush a light line around the pot rim and any entry points.
5. Lightly scratch a pinch into the top 0.25 inch of soil where you see tunnels in a potted plant with ants.
6. Leave dry for 24–48 hours. If you water, reapply after the soil surface dries again.
7. Vacuum stray dust and store DE sealed to keep it dry and effective.

Apply DE as a whisper-thin layer-more isn’t better and can crust the soil surface. Bottom-water when possible to keep the barrier active longer.

Precautions for Pets and Children

DE isn’t poisonous, but the fine dust can irritate eyes and lungs. Keep pets and kids out of the area until dust has settled and the surface is tidy.

Store the bag sealed and off the floor. Avoid using DE near aquariums or vents, and always keep it away from blooms to protect beneficial insects on outdoor plants.

4. Neem Oil for Dual Ant and Pest Control

Mixing the Perfect Neem Oil Solution

Cold-pressed neem oil with azadirachtin targets soft-bodied pests and reduces honeydew-the sugary food that attracts ants. That means fewer ants in plants and less ant traffic across your pots.

• Cold-pressed neem oil (not “clarified leaf shine”)
• Mild, unscented liquid soap (emulsifier) or horticultural surfactant
• Warm water and a clean spray bottle

1. In a quart (1 L) of warm water, mix 0.5 tsp (2.5 mL) mild soap.
2. Add 1–2 tsp (5–10 mL) neem oil for a 0.5–1% solution. Shake until the mix turns milky.
3. Use immediately; neem breaks down within hours. Mix fresh each time.

For a gallon: 1–2 tbsp (15–30 mL) neem oil + 1–2 tsp (5–10 mL) soap in warm water. Always spot-test one leaf and wait 24 hours before full use.

Targeting Both Ants and Their Food Sources

Neem doesn’t just bother ants-it disrupts aphids, mealybugs, and scale crawlers that produce honeydew. Removing their food source helps stop ant infestations in plants from rebounding.

1. Wipe visible honeydew or sooty mold with a damp cloth so spray can reach pests.
2. Spray leaf undersides, stems, and leaf joints to the point of light runoff.
3. Lightly mist the topsoil, pot rim, and around drainage holes where ants in pot soil are active.
4. Keep plants out of direct sun or strong grow lights for 4–6 hours after spraying.

Do ants kill plants? Not directly, but they protect honeydew-making pests that weaken plants, which is why this dual approach works.

Application Timing and Frequency

Spray at dusk or early morning to reduce leaf burn and give the film time to work. Avoid use when room temps exceed 85°F (29°C) or on stressed plants.

1. Standard schedule: once every 7 days for 3–4 weeks to break life cycles.
2. Heavy infestations: two treatments 3–4 days apart, then weekly.
3. Pause if leaves scorch or wilt, and resume at lower strength.
4. For edible herbs, rinse leaves before eating and avoid spraying open blooms.

Use a low-strength soil drench only if you suspect root pests (e.g., root mealybugs), not just ants in my plants. Focus foliar coverage to reduce honeydew and ant interest.

5. Complete Soil Replacement Method

When Repotting is Your Best Option

Choose repotting when you see a full colony (eggs, winged ants), soil collapsing from tunneling, or ants returning after other methods. It also helps when the mix is waterlogged or compacted, which invites ants in potted plants to nest.

If you moved containers from outdoors or have ants in flower pot soil for weeks, fresh sterile mix breaks the cycle fast. This also answers “why are there ants in my plants?”-the old mix became perfect real estate.

How to Safely Remove Ant-infested Soil

• Fresh potting mix suited to your plant
• Mesh screen for the drainage hole
• Trowel/chopstick, gloves, and a large tray
• Seal-able trash bag or lidded bucket for old soil
• Optional: a light DE ring on the tray to intercept runners

1. Work outdoors or in a tub. Set the pot in a wide tray lined with newspaper.
2. Lightly moisten the root ball 2–3 hours earlier so soil releases cleanly, but keep the surface dry.
3. Support the stem at the base, tip the pot, and slide the root ball out.
4. Gently shake and tease away every bit of soil into the bag. Use a chopstick to nudge soil from between roots.
5. Rinse roots with lukewarm water to remove remaining ants and debris.
6. Seal the old soil and discard in the trash-don’t reuse or compost it.
7. Wipe or vacuum up escaping ants around the tray so they don’t recolonize your space.

This method quickly removes ants in the soil of potted plants and any hidden pests they’re tending. It’s my go-to for stubborn ants in indoor plants or when I need to remove ants from potted plants fast.

Choosing the Right Fresh Potting Mix

Use a sterile, well-draining mix matched to your plant type so ants in plants don’t view it as ideal nesting material. Avoid yard soil and heavy compost indoors.

• Tropicals: peat/coir base with 30–40% perlite or pumice
• Succulents: 50–70% mineral grit (pumice, perlite, coarse sand)
• Herbs/edibles: food-safe potting mix with good drainage
• Optional: mix in 5–10% neem seed meal by volume to discourage soft-bodied pests

Pre-moisten the mix so it’s evenly damp, not soggy. Set mesh over the drainage hole before filling to block ant tunnels in a pot.

Root Inspection and Plant Health Check

1. Check roots: healthy ones are firm and white/tan. Trim mushy or black roots with sterilized scissors.
2. Look for cottony tufts (root mealybugs) or sticky residue. Dab pests with a cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol, then rinse.
3. Let trimmed roots air-dry 10–15 minutes. Dust large cuts lightly with ground cinnamon as a gentle antifungal.
4. Repot at the same depth, firming mix around roots without compacting.

A quick root check stops the “ants and plants” cycle by removing both the nest and the food sources ants protect. This gives you a clean slate if you’re asking how to get rid of ants in plants for good.

Sterilizing Your Pot Before Replanting

1. Wash the pot and saucer with hot, soapy water and a scrub brush.
2. Disinfect: soak 10 minutes in a 10% bleach solution or spray with 3% hydrogen peroxide and let sit 10 minutes.
3. Rinse thoroughly and let the pot dry completely; sun-dry if possible.
4. Place mesh over the drainage hole, repot with fresh mix, and water. After the surface dries, add a very thin layer of horticultural sand or a light DE dusting as a dry top-dress.

This approach addresses ants in my potted plants, ants in potting soil, and what to do about ants in plants when other fixes don’t stick. Fresh mix plus clean hardware removes the “why” and the “where do ants come from in potted plants” in one session.

6. Natural Barrier and Deterrent Techniques

Coffee Grounds and Cinnamon Applications

Used coffee grounds and cinnamon can nudge ants away without harming your potted plant. They act more like roadblocks and scent masks than poisons, so consistency matters. If those little invaders are in your kitchen, it’s essential to take action quickly to avoid a larger infestation. Exploring methods like these can be part of an effective guide to getting rid of ants in your kitchen.

• Use only dried, used coffee grounds (fresh grounds can acidify soil and mold).
• Choose ground cinnamon or cinnamon bark oil; both repel by masking ant trails.
• Best for ants in plant soil that are foraging, not nesting deep in the pot.

1. Dry the grounds: spread used coffee grounds on a tray and let them air-dry 24 hours (or bake at 200°F/93°C for 20 minutes).
2. Apply a thin ring: sprinkle a light halo (about 1–2 tablespoons for a 6–8 inch pot) on the outer rim of the pot and the saucer, not mixed into the soil.
3. Dust with cinnamon: add a very light dusting (⅛–¼ teaspoon) across the topsoil and the pot rim; avoid clumps.
4. Refresh weekly: reapply after watering or if you see new ant trails.

Keep coffee to a thin sprinkle-heavy layers can compact the surface and invite fungus. If you’re wondering how to get rid of ants in potted plants fast, pair this with a primary control (like soapy water or repotting) and let coffee/cinnamon handle the follow-up deterrence.

Creating Physical Barriers Around Pots

Ants in potted plants hate obstacles-block their bridges and they move on. Physical barriers work well for ants in indoor plants and for outdoor balconies where you spot ants in potted flowers and along shelves.

• Sticky band or double-sided tape
• Painter’s tape + petroleum jelly (for easy cleanup)
• PTFE (Teflon) tape or slick packing tape
• Fine mesh screen or coffee filter (for drainage holes)
• Horticultural grit/sand for a top-dress layer
• Water “moat” saucers or jar caps for pot stand legs
• Pruners to remove leaf bridges

1. Break contact points: move the potted plant with ants so no leaves touch walls, other plants, or cords-ants use these as highways.
2. Make a sticky band: wrap painter’s tape around the pot’s exterior, 1–2 inches below the rim; coat the tape with a thin smear of petroleum jelly or use double-sided tape. Replace when dusty.
3. Add a slick wrap: spiral PTFE tape around pot stands or shelves where ants climb; the low-friction surface makes them slip.
4. Guard the drainage: place a fine mesh or coffee filter over the pot’s drainage hole before repotting to stop ants from moving in while keeping water flowing.
5. Top-dress the soil: spread a ½–¾ inch layer of horticultural grit or coarse sand. This loose, angular texture collapses ant tunnels and discourages nesting in the soil of potted plants.
6. Create a moat: set pot feet or a wire stand in shallow dishes filled with water and a drop of dish soap. Keep the pot itself dry-only the stand’s legs sit in the moat.

These barriers shine after you remove ants from potted plants with a primary method, keeping new foragers out while the plant recovers. They’re especially handy when you see ants in the soil of potted plants reappearing from floorboards or window sills.

Essential Oil Deterrents That Won’t Harm Plants

Some essential oils scramble ant scent trails without soaking your plant or stressing roots. Use them on the pot, saucer, and nearby surfaces-never pour oils into potting soil.

• Good options: peppermint, lemon eucalyptus, cinnamon bark, cedarwood
• Avoid direct leaf sprays on sensitive plants (ferns, African violets, succulents)
• Keep away from pets and babies; ventilate well

1. Mix a gentle spray: in a spray bottle, combine 1 cup water + 1 teaspoon mild liquid soap (emulsifier) + 10–15 drops essential oil. Shake before each use.
2. Target surfaces: lightly mist the pot’s exterior, saucer, shelf edges, and entry points where you see ants on my plant marching. Do not drench the soil.
3. Use cotton barriers: add 1–2 drops of oil onto cotton balls and tuck them under the pot lip or on the saucer edge to create a long-lasting scent zone.
4. Reapply regularly: refresh every 3–5 days, or after cleaning/watering, until ant traffic stops.

Peppermint is a strong first pick for ants and plants because it disrupts trails yet is easy to control as a surface spray. If you’re dealing with repeated ant infestations in plants, rotate oils every few weeks so ants don’t acclimate to one scent. Interestingly, peppermint oil is also known for its ability to repel certain pests, including spiders. Many people wonder if using peppermint oil can effectively keep spiders at bay in their homes.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Using Harsh Chemical Pesticides on Indoor Plants

Aerosols and heavy-duty insecticides can damage foliage, leave residue indoors, and still miss the nest. Many are not labeled for indoor ornamental use, and some systemic formulas push residues into potting soil.

• Skip foggers and outdoor-strength sprays on a potted plant with ants inside your home.
• Choose plant-safe options and spot-target surfaces instead of saturating the plant.
• Ventilate and protect pets if you use any scented deterrents.

Treating Only the Ants Without Addressing Root Causes

If honeydew-producing pests are feeding, ants will keep returning to farm them. That’s why you might ask “why are there ants in my plants?” and see them back a week later.

• Check for aphids, scale, or mealybugs on stems and leaf undersides; sticky leaves and sooty mold are clues.
• Clean up fallen petals, food crumbs, and sticky residues near pots that attract ants in pot.
• Fix drainage and excess moisture, which lure ants in potted plant soil.

Overwatering After Treatment

Flooding the pot to flush ants can waterlog roots and invite fungus gnats. Wet, compact soil is a welcome mat for ants in plants and other pests. If ants are infiltrating your bathroom, it may be a sign of moisture issues similar to what plants experience. Taking steps to eliminate excess water can help get rid of ants in your bathroom and keep your space pest-free.

• Water only when the top 1–2 inches are dry; then water thoroughly and drain the saucer.
• Use a moisture meter or the finger test; avoid “just-in-case” watering after you remove ants from potted plants.
• Improve aeration with perlite or bark in the next repot if soil holds too much water.

Ignoring Other Pest Infestations

Ants and plants often share space with fungus gnats, springtails, or root mealybugs. If you only chase ants in my potted plants, hidden pests keep stressing roots and pumping out attractants.

• Look for moving specks in the soil, cottony tufts at the crown, or tiny brown bumps on stems.
• Treat those pests with targeted methods so ants lose their food sources.
• Monitor with yellow sticky traps to catch winged visitors and track progress.

Not Quarantining Treated Plants

Putting a treated pot back on a crowded shelf gives ants a bridge to reinvade. A short timeout helps you verify that you actually solved the problem.

1. Move the plant to a low-traffic spot with no leaf-to-leaf contact for 7–10 days.
2. Set a sticky trap nearby; check daily for ants in flower pot areas or along the floor.
3. Return the plant only after three consecutive days with zero ant activity.

Quarantine also answers “where do ants come from in potted plants?” by revealing whether they’re emerging from the pot or marching in from elsewhere. If they keep appearing from the floor or window frames, reinforce barriers there and consider sealing tiny entry gaps.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are Ants Themselves Harmful to My Potted Plants?

Ants alone rarely cause direct damage to plants, but their presence is a red flag for underlying issues. They often farm sap-sucking pests like aphids, which can weaken your plant. Additionally, large nests may disturb roots or reduce soil aeration.

What Quick Household Remedies Can I Try Before Advanced Treatments?

For a simple deterrent, create a barrier with cinnamon or used coffee grounds around the pot’s rim. You can also wipe down leaves with a diluted vinegar solution (1 part vinegar to 3 parts water) to disrupt ant trails, but avoid soil contact to prevent acidity changes. The effectiveness of cinnamon in keeping ants away makes it a favored choice among natural pest control methods.

How Can I Stop Ants From Targeting My Plants in the Future?

Focus on eliminating attractants like excess moisture and honeydew-producing pests. Keep plant areas clean, avoid overwatering, and inspect new plants before introducing them. Placing pots on stands with water moats can block ant access.

Are These Treatments Safe for Edible Plants Like Herbs or Vegetables?

Yes, methods like soapy water or diatomaceous earth are plant-safe, but always rinse edible parts thoroughly before consumption. For neem oil, apply in the evening to avoid sunburn and wait a few days after treatment before harvesting.

What Indicates That the Ant Infestation is Fully Resolved?

Look for no ant activity for at least one week after treatment and check for absence of aphids or scale insects. Healthy new growth without pest signs means you’ve addressed the root cause. Continue monitoring to catch recurrences early.

Final Words

Dealing with ants in your potted plants doesn’t have to be a losing battle. You now have a complete toolkit of plant-safe methods to eliminate both the ants and the underlying conditions that attract them. Remember, success comes from combining immediate action with long-term prevention strategies.

Start with the soapy water method for quick results, then layer in barriers like diatomaceous earth or coffee grounds to keep ants away for good. If the infestation is severe, don’t hesitate to repot completely – your plants will thank you with healthier growth and fewer pest problems down the road.

Ready to reclaim your green space? Pick the method that fits your situation and give it a try this week. For more plant care solutions and home wellness tips, check out Savvy Dwelling where we share research-backed strategies that actually work in real homes like yours.

References You Might Like:

• Help, I Have Ants In My Houseplants! Tips To Keep Ants Out | Gardening Know How
• My flower pots are full of ants kept in my back lawn. What do I do to make them leave my pots? – Quora
• r/gardening on Reddit: My plant has ants in the pot, what to do?
• Eliminating ants from potted plants – Greg Alder’s Yard Posts: Southern California food gardening
• Ants in Potted Plants: Why They Nest & How to Get Rid of Them – Food Independence Summit